Chennai to Madhya Pradesh: Mahakaleshwar & Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga Weekend Yatra
For a long time, me and my friend Palani have been dreaming about completing all 12 Jyotirlinga darshans. This quick weekend yatra from Chennai to Madhya Pradesh was our next step – to seek blessings at Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga (3rd) in Ujjain and Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga (4th) on the banks of the sacred Narmada.
Reaching Indore: The Friday Evening Flight Run
To save time, we chose to fly instead of taking a train to Indore, which is the closest big city for both Ujjain and Omkareshwar. Direct flights from Chennai were costly, so we booked a connecting IndiGo flight via Nagpur on 21st April 2023 (Friday).
Chennai → Nagpur (IndiGo)
Boarding: 5:05 PM
Departure: 5:50 PM
We had about 1 hour 10 minutes layover at Nagpur, enough to have a relaxed dinner at the airport.
Nagpur → Indore (IndiGo)
Boarding: 8:00 PM
Departure: 8:45 PM
Total travel time was around 4 hours 5 minutes, and we reached Indore on time, ready to begin our Mahakal journey.
Midnight Auto Story: When Mahakal Sent an Auto Driver
Our plan was to take an auto to the bus stand and then a bus to Ujjain. But there was a small challenge: both of us were not comfortable with Hindi, and in a new city at night, that makes things tricky.
Outside Indore Airport, there were many autos and cabs. Some auto drivers quoted high prices to just drop us at the bus stand. Finally, one auto driver agreed for ₹200, but he was also hunting for more passengers. We were not fully comfortable.
As we sat, he started asking:
“Where are you from?”
“Where are you going?”
When I said, “We are going to Ujjain to see Mahakaleshwar,” his face changed immediately. With pride he said, “Aap hamare Mahakaleshwar ke darshan ke liye aa rahe ho.”
He dropped us near the bus stand and said we would get a bus from there. We were confused, and then he came back and said:
“If you want, I can drop you directly to Ujjain.”
It was already close to midnight, and Indore to Ujjain is about 50 km. Initially, we were hesitant about safety. He quoted ₹1,000, I negotiated and we closed at ₹900 – a fair deal at 12 AM in an unknown city.
To be safe, we kept Google Maps open the whole way to ensure we were indeed heading towards Ujjain. Inside, there was fear, but also a strange sense of trust growing. We also realised he was not from Ujjain and would probably not get any passenger back at that time.
When I asked him why he still agreed, his answer was simple:
“You came to see our God.”
That line stayed with me. I felt bad about doubting him at first. It really felt like Mahakaleshwar himself had arranged this ride.
Ujjain at 12 AM: Kulfi, Hotel Hunt & Holy Bath Plan
We reached Ujjain around midnight, and to our surprise, the city was still alive. Shops were open, lights were on, and lanes around the temple were active – it felt like the city never sleeps around Mahakal.
We celebrated the successful arrival with kulfi ice – wow… simply wow. That first bite in the cool night air felt like a blessing.
Since this trip was not heavily planned, our next challenge was to find a hotel at 12 AM. We walked around looking for something close to the temple. The first room shown to us was not good at all. We asked if they had any other option, and the manager offered a larger ground-floor room. Renovation work was going on, so we negotiated and finally got it for ₹1,700.
It wasn’t a luxury room, but it was big, within budget, and most importantly, very close to Mahakaleshwar Temple – which was our main priority.
Once we settled in and dropped our luggage, our first thought for the next morning was clear: take a bath in holy water and then go for darshan. Ujjain is closely associated with the sacred Shipra River, and pilgrims traditionally bathe at the ghats before visiting Mahakal.
22nd April: Special Darshan at Mahakaleshwar – A Day to Remember
The next morning, after freshening up and spiritually preparing ourselves, we headed to Shri Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, one of the most revered Jyotirlingas and the only south-facing Shiva Linga among the twelve.
We opted for special darshan tickets, paying ₹1,500 for both of us. It turned out to be the best decision of the trip. The arrangements were smoother, and we could go much closer to the sanctum.
We were blessed to get an unforgettable darshan of Mahakal. The highlight was that we were allowed to actually touch the Jyotirlinga. The moment my hand touched Mahakal, my heart literally melted. All the tiredness from flights, language hassles, midnight ride – everything disappeared.
For me, 22nd April 2023 will always remain a memorable spiritual milestone.
Ujjain Temple Trail: Kal Bhairav, Harsiddhi, Mangalnath & Mahakal Lok
Post-darshan, we stepped out fully charged with devotion. Local tuk-tuk drivers near the temple offer small sightseeing circuits that cover major temples in and around Ujjain, and we hired one of them to explore further.
We visited:
Kal Bhairav Temple
Famous for the unique ritual where devotees offer liquor to the deity as part of the traditional worship.
There was a long queue, but as we moved closer, the aura was intense and powerful – very different from regular temple vibes.
Harsiddhi Temple
One of the 51 Shakti Peethas, dedicated to Goddess Harsiddhi. The twin lamp towers and strong Shakti energy made the place feel deeply sacred.
Mangalnath Temple
Considered the birthplace of Mars (Mangal) and an important astrological/planetary worship site, where many people perform rituals for graha doshas and planetary peace.
Along the way, we also saw a few more temples, including one where we noticed a Tamil-style Murugan posture, which instantly reminded us of home and made us smile.
By evening, we returned to the hotel, took some rest, and then headed out again to experience the stunning Mahakal Lok Corridor. The corridor is beautifully designed, with impressive murals, sculptures, and lighting showcasing different forms and stories of Lord Shiva. Walking through it at night with the lights on was like moving through a live spiritual gallery.
23rd April: Ujjain to Omkareshwar – Narmada River, Crowds & Heat
On 23rd April 2023, we started early from Ujjain towards Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga. We took an AC bus, and the ticket price was surprisingly affordable – just ₹250 per person. For the distance and comfort, it was excellent value.
Once we reached Omkareshwar, the next step was to cross the Narmada River to reach the temple area. You can either use the bridge or take a boat ride on the Narmada, and we chose the boat experience, paying around ₹400. The view of the river, dam, and temple from the boat was beautiful, even though there was a lot of rush.
The temple side was very crowded and hot. The climate really drained our energy, and standing in queues became tiring. Still, with patience and constant chanting, we managed to get darshan at Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga, adding one more powerful Shiva kshetra to our Jyotirlinga journey.
After darshan, we were exhausted and decided not to push any more sightseeing. We returned towards Indore by night and booked a hotel near Indore Airport to make our next day’s travel easier.
Indore Night: Big City Vibes & Cricket Everywhere
Indore felt like a proper big city – wide roads, buzzing traffic, and a lot of life everywhere. For dinner, we stepped out locally and noticed one common thing in almost every hotel and restaurant: cricket
There was an India match going on, and almost every place had the match streaming on TV. People were eating, talking, and cheering between bites. That combination of food, travel tiredness, and background commentary of “India… India…” gave the night a very familiar Indian flavour.
After dinner, we returned to our airport-side hotel and wrapped up the trip with tired bodies but full hearts.
